Velkomin til Reykjavíkur! GETTING HERE: Unlike most of the people attending the Iceland Writers Retreat, who are flying Icelandair, I’ve somehow managed to book myself on a discount airline called WOW. We get off to a less-than-spectacular start with a three-hour delay. Once we finally board, however, the airline redeems itself with funky fuchsia carpets and an assortment of cheeky sayings stenciled onto the cabin walls, like some kind of airborne IKEA. Must be a Nordic thing. The captain makes a speech about how he is going to fly as fast as possible now—not to worry—and then the flight attendants come out and crack some jokes in their lilting Icelandic accents. Either no one in Iceland is